Naans vast and crisp, the size of a pillow 13/02/20.
The Fat Duck's No 2? He's a real No 1 now 20/02/20.Victor Garvey's Sola brings together technical expertise and quality ingredients to serve up Los Angeles sunshine in the heart of London's Soho 27/02/20 A devilishly spicy taste of Paradise 05/03/20.Pure, not prissy: Indian at its best 12/03/20.EATING OUT: Tom Parker Bowles & Olly Smith 10/09/20.Tom Parker Bowles & Olly Smith 17/09/20.More from Tom Parker Bowles Event for The Mail on Sunday. And joy.’ Comfort food in mink-lined knickers. ‘An evolution of his great friend Bruno Loubet’s dish,’ he grinned. He ate the thing so fast it was practically inhaled, using the bread to mop up every last smear. My friend Matthew’s snails with meatballs and potato espuma (or foam – yes, I know) arrived in a Perspex bowl. But there was none of the usual bitterness in the carapace, the whole thing as sweet as a mermaid’s sigh.Ī ceviche of scallops had certainly been to the grandest of finishing schools – a silken, restrained mouthful, stupendously fresh, with tiny nuggets of cucumber adding gloriously salty texture. Whether they were flown in fresh from Venice that morning, I don’t know.
ukīut the soft-shell crab, which didn’t appear on the bill, was clad in an ethereal, golden batter, a masterpiece of the fryer’s art.
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Plus they do wonderful bacon, thrilling homemade charcuterie and some decent fresh fish. Their meat is free-range and locally sourced, their beef properly hung and their pork properly piggy.